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On the eve of London Fashion Week I thought it only pertinent to present a few of the highlights of New York Fashion Week, which finishes today. New York has certainly seen a continuation of the shift towards more wearable, commercially viable collections, which are more suited to the current economic climate. I’m not going to open a debate about the RECESSION and all it’s implications, but it’s certainly interesting to see designers pushing creativity and innovation within tighter constraints.

Marc Jacobs’ ladylike collection proved that he still has the ability to surprise, with designs that were refined and elegant, yet edgy. The soft colour palette (the delicate marl grey worked particularly well), pearls and ruffles were combined with bags with metres of fringing, sheer trousers (sheer really is the trend that refuses to go away). Vintage silk bras were worn over cage tops, whilst heavily textured tops were paired with jacquard skirts…girly at it’s very best.

Always, always, always the collection I wait for, Rodarte did not disappoint, with a collection that was ferocious yet feminine. Their warrior women took tribal to the next level, a scavenged mix of gothic black with soft knotting and draping, ultra long fringing and strong Aztec-like patterns. These mangled and scared personas were inspired by Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s trip to California’s Death Valley. The predominantly black colour palette was lifted by the use of subtle earthy tones…these are clothes to be won with a certain amount of attitude.

Dramatically clean shapes, strong silhouettes and a restrained use of colour were the hallmarks of Ohne Titel’s sharply tailored collection, which paid attention to all the details- laced-up neckpieces, feathered skirts and Taking inspiration from the ‘bold colours in Egyptian reliefs and sculptures’, this strong collection incorporated elements of body armour. Recently named CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists, and winners of a Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation award, this duo have certainly marked themselves as one of the labels to watch.

Alexandre Herchcovitch presented a collection that was full of references to football (or in Herchcovith’s native Brazil, futebol). Taking the uniform of a footballer, which simultaneously protects and distorts the wearer, Herchcovitch successfully created feminine designs, in a soft palette of grey and peach, with gently rounded shoulders and curved panel details. With a more theatrical finale, which took the references more literally- cages, skirt hoops and oversized shoulders this collections success lied in its ability to maintain an edge of grown-up sophistication- these tight, sporty pieces were individual yet wearable, and the bold graphic tops added a certain edge.

Vicki Loomes