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Bring out the bunting and call the brass band- knitwear has come of age, no longer reserved simply for grannies on the bus. Over the past two years knitwear designers including Mark Fast, Sandra Backlund and Tim Ryan have challenged traditional concepts of knitwear with increasingly innovative designs. If you need more proof look no further than one Derek Lawlor. Graduating from the Central Saint Martin’s Fashion Knitwear MA in March 2009 Lawlor was given the seal of approval (‘fabulous knitwear’) by none other than Sarah Mower- high praise indeed. Last week Lawlor presented his SS10 collection at Blackhall Studios in Shoreditch as part of London Fashion Week- a show which coincided with the launch of the designer’s own fashion label.

A unique mix of laced cord and cashmere each piece can take up to three weeks to create, a unique technique which is the product of over 18 months experimentation with a domestic knitting machine. Taking inspiration from Japanese body armour and architecture the dresses are something of a paradox- sculptural yet fitted, intricate yet unfussy. A simple monochrome palette- black, white and grey with silver highlights- ensures the look maintains an edge of minimalism, in direct antithesis to the complex detailing.

A combination of techniques are utilised to create completely original pieces- traditional weaving technique are re-worked, creating three dimensional silhouettes, whilst uber long fringing adds movement and subtle details- plastic dip-dye for example add a futuristic edge. Pushing the boundaries between art and fashion Lawlor’s garments almost defy description. It will be interesting to see how (if!) Lawlor develops his signature aesthetic to be more suitable for mass production.

Vicki Loomes